Malta

Holidays by Destination Europe Malta Things to Do and Places to See 

In general while Malta is very developed, smaller Gozo is still traditionally rural, particularly undeveloped at the western end, and the smallest island Comino is close to uninhabited.

History

Strategically located half way between Gibraltar and Alexandria, the islands have seen visitors and invaders from the Phoenicians to the British, and been defended by the Knights of St John who made their base here. Even before this, the island was home to a Neolithic culture which created the oldest human built structures in the world, and the most significant complexes in Europe.

Malta
Valletta - A combination of baroque buildings and military architecture, along with the islands' best museum and cathedral. Because it shuts down after dark unfortunately it's not much fun to stay there.
Planned and built by the Knights of Malta (in such a way as to encourage ventilation in the island heat), bombing during World War II led to poor rebuilding but it remains attractive. Key sites include the Grand Master's Palace, where there is plenty of art but most notably a fine armoury - around 5,000 pieces from the 16th to 18th century, a fraction of those inherited from Knights of Malta when they died. There are also some fine Gobelin tapestries. The National Museum of Archaeology houses key finds from the islands' Neolithic past. There are inns of residence of the knights, particularly the Auberge de Castille. St John's Co-Cathedral is the finest church on the islands, notable for the size of its interior, its baroque enthusiasm, and quality of paintings, notably a particularly good Caravaggio. The Lascaris War Rooms have wax dummies recreating the atmosphere of its past as a command centre for the Allied Mediterranean fleet in WWII.

Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua - three cities on the opposite side of the harbour from Valletta, largely residential and working areas. The Inquistor's Palace with both garden and prison cells, and Fort St Angelo, Malta's oldest fort and current home of the Knights of Malta (more impressive inside, despite government neglect), are two key sights. Collachio, the area once reserved for the Knights, still has a medieval feel. The Cottonera Waterfront Regeneration Project means that harbourfront buildings are being converted to apartments, offices, hotel, casino and the like, though it may damage seabed archaeological remains. The Maritime Museum in the onetime naval bakery for the Mediterranean fleet includes items from Roman anchors up to the British period, with remains and models. Fort Rinella was built to house the giant Armstrong 100-ton gun, the largest gun ever made and the one here one of only two survivors. The fort interior has en laid out to recreate its look for those who manned it.

Mdina - in the centre of island, is a baroque city with narrow winding streets to confuse invaders, where non-residents' cars are not allowed, almost unpopulated once the tourists have gone home. The cathedral is a highlight but it's fine just to wander. (Avoid the tourist trap shows.) Immediately outside is the Museum of Roman Antiquities over the remains of a Roman villa with undamaged mosaic floors.

Rabat - home to St Paul's Grotto and St Agatha's Catacombs complete with skeletons, for those who like the gruesome. For pilgrims there is the cave where St Paul is reputed to have stayed, but it is somewhat tedious. Not too far are Clapham Junction Cart Ruts, mysterious prehistoric tracks.

The Three Villages (Atard, Balzan, and Lija) - now desirable residential areas with baroque houses as well as more modern villas with specific attractions few but including San Anton Garden albeit of cobbled paths but with turtles, ducks, goldfish, swans etc in the ponds. To the west is the extremely large Mosta Dome where in WWII a bomb came through the roof during a church service with 300 present, but failed to explode.

Mgarr - home to the Mgarr Air Raid Shelter designed to protect the small town's 200 residents in WWII, just one of the island's original 841 shelters. Mgarr's is now set up with waxworks and recreations of family rooms, classroom and more.

Hypogeum - an underground Neolithic burial shrine and place of worship - still very incompletely understood but possibly home to a matriarchal/goddess worshipping society. An extraordinary building, possibly reserved for the priestly class, with entry now limited by advance purchased ticket to limit damage.

Tarxien, Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Neolithic temples include buildings up to 23m high and a ‘fat lady' of around 2.5m, the remains of an impressive but little understood culture which disappeared suddenly for reasons which have not yet been well explained. The government's attempts to turn the last two into an archaeological park in a fine sea cliff and gorge setting have been almost entirely overthrown by bird trappers who almost managed to demolish the ruins one night. The south temple at Mnajdra is the most intact of any on the islands and is aligned with the equinox and solstice sunrises. While some of these buildings are more overtly impressive than others, all offer an intriguing wisp of the past for those with a little imagination.

Gnar Dalam Cave - where a collection of ancient remains was found, the main items now on display in a small museum - though items like the tusks of a drwarf elephant have been stolen.

Marsaxlokk - the largest fishing centre with a good fish market and good fish restaurants but the general atmosphere marred by the cargo ships passing by and an overall dinginess.

There are numerous other fortifications, for example around Marsamxett harbour and Manoel Island where another big development project is due to include the restoration of a couple of sites.

Gozo
Rabat - the walled capital of Gozo, a citadel against pirates where the most attractive draws are the cathedral - notable for its lack of dome but impressive trompe l'oeil one painted on the ceiling, and the ramparts - with good views across the island. The old prisons may appeal to some.

Mgarr - with a fort as further defence and there is also a series of coastal towers and fortifications round the coast. .

Ggantija temples - regarded as the oldest human built structure in the world, dating to 3600 BC. There is a stone circle, an underground burial chamber, plus north and south temples, these last two open to the public. The site is of course less impressive than say the pyramids say, not helped by the notable neglect it has suffered, but with megaliths of up to 55 tonnes, it warrants at least a look.

Ta' Pinu Basilica - a pilgrimage site, holds a generous collection of offerings from those who believe their recovery was connected to the shrine - from crash helmets to model limbs - as well as a fine painting by Perugino.

The Folklore Museum - in a restored 18th century house in Gharb gives a feel of life here before electricity arrived - almost everything made of wood. There are a number of other restored buildings, generally expensive second homes.

Ta' Kola Windmill Museum - dating from 1725 and recently restored with recreation of the miller's living quarters and system for grinding including wooden cogs.

Pomskizillious Museum of Toys - Taking its name from the nonsense poet Edward Lear, includes a life size model of the writer, plus toys including British Victorian dolls houses, model railways, and various 19th century dolls.

Shows, Exhibitions etc.

The Great Siege of Malta and the Knights of St John http://www.cities.com.mt/great-siege, in Valletta, uses virtual reality, video and theatrical reconstructions.

Wartime Experience in Valletta is a striking film documentary about the island's experiences in WWII.

In Guardia! and Alarme! Re-enactments on Sundays at Fort St Elmo in Valletta in period costume. The first recreates military parades of the times of the Knights of St John. The second is a re-enactment of garrison life and battles between the French Napoleonic troops and the Maltese insurgents in the two-year Maltese uprising of 1798-1800.

In Valletta the St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity is a fortification converted to an arts centre.

The Manoel Theatre is entirely built in wood, Europe's oldest theatre, hosting a good range of performances year round, enhanced by brilliant acoustics.

The islands are known for their festas, generally in summer and celebrating each town's patron saint. They are fun but particularly the fireworks might be a bit much for small children.

On the Water

Boat tours of the Grand Harbour are possible by traditional kajjik, similar to a gondola, price and duration to be negotiated with the local boatmen on Vittoriosa or Senglea. Check with a tourist office what the current rate is before going.

Boat tours of Marsamxett Harbour are also offered (www.captainmorgan.com.mt), plus cruises to Comino's Blue Lagoon and round all three islands plus underwater safaris with underwater observation keels.

Boat trips to the Blue Grotto, a large cave at sea level, is not the experience it was some years ago, the lovely blue water spoiled by the noise and smell of multiple boats.

Children can learn to sail with an RYA recognised sailing school: Malta Sailing and Adventure Ltd at Portomaso, St Julians. Courses offered range from two-day introductory to more intensive five-day courses.

Activities

Mediterraneo Marine Park Bahar ic-Caghaq - with dolphins and sea lions, reptilarium, swans, pelicans, wallabies, mountain goats, ducks, etc. Private swimming sessions with the dolphins may be booked in advance in groups of no more than eight, minimum age 8 years. An interactive programme with all the animals in the park can also be booked in advance.

Splash and Fun Park - next door to the Mediterraneo Marine Park with four water chutes and a large swimming pool, plus restaurant. Adjacent is the Children's Play Park open year round with model dinosaurs, bouncy castle, carousels, children's train, roller coaster, bumping cars for children and adults etc. Entrance to the children's park is free.

Popeye Village - The film set of the 1980 film Popeye starring Robin Williams. Not recommended but there is an in-house animation team and the Children's World Fun Park.

Playmobil Fun Park - A factory tour in the Bulebel Industrial Estate, and free fun park with Playmobil items.

Badger Karting (Go-karting) - at Ta' Qali Raceway, within Ta'Qali national park at the foot of Mdina. Children have to be at least 8 to use the go-karts, not shorter than 4.5 feet and all under 18s need parents' consent.

Out and About

There are open air markets on weekdays in merchant's Street in Valletta and on Sundays St James' Ditch at the city gate.

In Valletta for a bit of time outdoors there is the Upper Barakka Gardens and Hastings Gardens with good views.

Ta'Qali Crafts Village houses Mdina Glass which makes glass by traditional methods, plus traditional jewellers who produce fiigree work.

Not far from Rabat are Buskett Gardens, the island's only mature woodland, therefore attracting bird hunters as well as twitchers, plus families at weekends.

Dingli Cliffs is the highest point on Malta, offer an outdoor option, the second with a sheer drop to the sea so unsuitable for little children.

On Gozo Calypso's Cave is reputed to be where Odysseus was kept captive by a nymph for seven years and there is an attractive view.

Beaches

The shape of the islands is such that the northern shore beaches slope gently into the sea making them more suitable for children.

A surprising extent of shoreline is rocky, swimming accessible by ladders so not very suitable for children.

With a hire car you can reach less accessible coves, particularly if you are willing to walk - which the Maltese usually don't.

Generally the water is safe though there are places with currents. If in doubt check with locals and look out for signs which should also be erected in case of pollution.

The average temperature is 18ºc and visibility is up to 30 metres which is why diving is so popular.

Lifeguards assisted by the Red Cross and St John's Ambulance patrol Pretty Bay, Armier Bay, Golden Bay and Mellieha Bay daily in summer. The beaches are cleaned every day.

Resort beaches generally offer watersports in summer, easy to try on the generally calm seas.

At Armier Bay, Mellieha Bay, Golden Bay and Ghajn Tuffieha Bay, visitors can rent paddleboats.

Diving off Gozo is reported some of if not the best in the Mediterranean.

Malta
Mellieha Bay in the northwest is the island's largest sandy beach.
Golden Bay on the southwest of the island is an attractive smaller spot, albeit spoilt by development in parts, or there is the nearby cove of Ghajn Tuffiena though it tends to attract the flash and in some cases topless/nudist crowd. Gneja Bay the next bay along, is popular with local families with snack kiosk and water sports rentals, including jet skis (but no lifeguard).

At the far northwest of the island there is a small sandy beach at Paradise Bay next to the Cirkewwa promontory where ferries leave for Gozo. The only downside is that there are afternoon beach parties for ravers on Sundays.

Ramla Bay further north becomes very busy with Maltese families at weekends and can suffer sewage pollution (the tourist office should be able to give you up to date info) but is quieter during the week.

On the east coast Xrobb L-Ghagin is the only good beach on a cove not far from the fishing town of Marsaxlokk.

Other sandy beaches are Armier Bay, Pretty Bay and St Thomas Bay.

Gozo
The best beach is Ramla Bay, with shallow water backed by dunes (which should by avoided as they are very fragile and home to rare plants and insects) rather crowded in high season.

Il-Gebla Tal-Halfa is recommended for snorkelling as is Ras Il-Bajda with clear water, striking under water rocks, sea life, and water level cave.

San Blas east of Ramla Bay is among rocky cliffs and without facilities like bars so quieter.

Comino
Now a protected nature reserve, the one square mile island is also a good place for diving and snorkelling. In addition to the Blue Lagoon, where visiting boats pollute the water beside the sandy beaches, there is Santa Marija Bay.