Algarve

Holidays by Destination Europe Portugal Algarve Where to Go, What to Do 

Officially the Algarve is divided into three regions, its coast, the agricultural hinterland and beyond that, mountains. Though the second two are in many ways at least as interesting as the coast, most visitors are only interested in the areas closer to the sea.

Their focus is catered to by attractions including Zoomarine with dolphin shows, karting, horse riding, jeep safaris with canoe and mountain bike options, and plenty of water sports.

West

The far west is not very developed though a new road may be changing that. It is rather windswept but the villages tend to be more genuine. Sagres, practically on the tip of Europe, was the site of Henry the Navigator's naval school and now a windsurfing mecca. The cape, Cabo Sao Vicente, was an early Christian shrine. The coast to the north is far rougher and almost entirely undeveloped. Moving east, Salema is a not too developed fishing village, Burgau rather more so (beware the outskirts). Praia da Luz is another more developed area but quiet so popular with young families. The beach, though not big, is reported rarely crowded even in high season.

Central

The most developed section and completely packed in summer.

Lagos is an ancient settlement still retaining some character as a market town and fishing port. Sights include an extraordinary church, the Igreja de Santo Antonio, densely carved and gilded, a fort, old buildings, and even the arches of Europe's first slave market. The beaches are some of the better on the coast with a long sweep to the east and a series of coves to the west framed by purple, weather-carved rocks.

Alvor has a giant beach but the development is less than inspiring. To the northwest is the Quinta da Rocha nature reserve.

Portimao is one of the coast's largest towns and still a port. An 18th century earthquake has left it rather characterless but it is busy and there is a huge market on the first Monday of the month. More important for tourists is Praia da Rocha a high rise but generally tidy resort 3km south with a lovely wide beach framed by cliffs (unsuitable for families who can't negotiate steps) and an old fort.

Carvoeiro set into the red sea cliffs, is attractive though the beach is not large enough for the number of visitors (predominantly British families) in high season. Smarter accommodation is in villas to the west rather than new hotels to the east. Armacao offers reasonably neat high rise at the end of a good beach.

Albufeira is the main package tour destination and it has sprawled extraordinarily and pretty horribly, though in the heart there are the pretty streets of the once village. There are the ruins of a castle, cove beaches and a range of visitors. Vilamoura is another of the highly developed areas, becoming ever more so with facilities including golf courses and enclosed developments like the so-called Old Village. There is a decent, if crowded, beach.

Quarteira originally pleasant, has been overwhelmed by the surrounding development, that one block back from the sea are smarter than the older waterfront properties.

Quinta do Lago is in effect a giant, luxury holiday village with golf courses, substantial villas and the hotel of the same name. Neighbouring it is Vale de Lobo with more of the same plus riding school and a tennis centre in something of an international version of Mediterranean style.

The small lagoon close to the sea is a draw for all kinds of birds. There is the option of karting at nearby Almancil.

East

From Faro east, beyond a muddy shoreline, are fine, sandy offshore islets known as ilhas, which then join the mainland and extend into more accessible, excellent, wide beaches. Waters are generally warmer than further west. Most are less developed than western beaches, though Faro's is an exception. The land behind is less built up but more development is expected.

Faro's swift growth in just 30 years has left it surrounded in concrete. An attractive harbour remains however, and an old town hidden inside defensive walls. There is the Museu Arquologico behind the behind the cathedral in an old convent and home to Roman and Moorish archaeological finds, including a rather damaged Mosaic of the Ocean.

Tavira a tuna-fishing port, is a truly attractive town with a pretty Roman bridge and gardens and cafes along the river banks. 16th and 17th century mansions give the streets character, along with plenty of churches and it would be an excellent stop. A possible trip inland is to the old Moorish mines, then to some Celtic style buildings, megalithic tombs and some old windmills, still used until the ‘50s.

Beyond are outcrops of recent development with Alagoa offering rows of self-catering and one high rise and Praia Verde a kind of fake Latin American look resort (above the beach so a hike down). More attractive is Pedra de Raihna with a low key waterfront of cafes and restaurants but a boat ride to the beach.

Cacela Velha is a surviving hamlet barely touched by tourism offering the ruins of a fort, the odd cafe and rooms to let. It's a glimpse of how the Algarve used to be.

Vila Real de Santo Antonio is the border town and harbour, rebuilt in 1774. Monte Gordo is the growing seaside resort.

Inland

Up river at the border is a nature reserve around Castro Marim, and Alcoutim with a ruined castle. Inland from Tavira is a park with traditional celtic buildings, tombs and mine. Near Faro Estoi offers Roman remains and an 18th century estate. Beyond and also attractive is Sao Bras de Alportel with an intriguing Museu Etnografico do Trajo Algarvo of traditional costumes and farming and domestic items.

Loule inland from Quarteira is a market town with Roman and Moorish past including ruined castle and shops where you can see crafts people at work.

Silves behind Portimao, is an old Moorish town with Moorish fortress and dramatic approach. It's a place to enjoy the atmosphere in a cafe or visit the market. The most striking area, however, is the Serra de Monchique, the highest mountain range in the south, with cork and chestnut woods plus an old spa at Caldas de Monchique. On and up is Foia with panoramic views though the lower Picota offers more interesting botany and wild goats.