Sicily

Holidays by Destination Europe Italy Sicily 

To outsiders, the Mafia is Sicily's best known feature. When you get there it's the density of history which is most striking. The island has been inhabited since at least Neolithic times, with Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and mainland Italians all leaving their mark. Furthermore, despite powerful film images of bare rock and sun burnt grass, it is also an intensely fertile island, once upon a time the bread basket of the Roman Empire.

What is more, far from the closed and mistrustful demeanour of, say, Corsicans, the Sicilians, particularly the educated ones, are often conversational and welcoming. They are also frustrated and irritated by their image abroad, not least in mainland Italy. The locals therefore welcome the chance to put their point of view to outsiders. The introduction of Ryanair services may well increase their chance of doing that.

What is new is that tourism here is on the point of turning into something really interesting. Ten years ago accommodation for example was largely stuck in the ‘70s; slightly dingy family pensioni, concrete seaside hotels, and service-lite five-stars. Now there is a growing number of independent properties ranging from agriturismi to luxury self-catering villas, and a handful of small but elegant hotels as well. For those who are interested, there is more and more organic food available, much of it offered on rural properties which grow their own.

While some parts of the island have been definitively damaged, largely by industrial development, others remain delightful. And though popular with Italians, these areas are not yet on the international tourist trail.