Loire

Holidays by Destination Europe France Loire Places to Go and Things to Do 

Chateaux

There are the fairytale ones and the more brutal, fortified spots so there should be something to appeal to the spectrum of child imagination - though it's important pick and choose rather than try to fit them all in. A book on castles (for example from Usborne) might be useful, as might be a well illustrated book of fairy tales. Charles Perrault, one of the early French writers of such stories, apparently took inspiration for Sleeping Beauty from Usse.

Azay le Rideau
On a loop in the Indre river, has one the prettiest exteriors of all the Loire chateaux (gleaming white) though you could skip the interiors, furnished in Renaissance style. The village itself with mill, bridge, and old church is also attractive.

Chambord
The largest chateau of the Loire with 440 rooms and 84 staircases and on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The park offers ‘the largest enclosed forest park in Europe' of 5,500 hectares, 1,500 of which are open to the public and includes observation posts to watch stages, wild boar, roes deer and moufflon among other wildlife.

Chenonceaux
One of the must-see sites if you are going to be doing chateaux - the one most often reproduced in photographs, partly in the form of a bridge across the river Cher which flows so slowly there is almost always a fine reflection. A waxwork museum offers 15 tableaux of the ladies of the chateau.
In the grounds are woods, a stream and a maze and on summer evenings there is a son et lumiere show. In July and August you can take a boat out on the river and there may be a tourist train.

Gizeux
A chateau of the 14th to 16th century with Renaissance paintings and 17th century frescoes, but more importantly for children a Musee Vivant de l'Ane, with 16 different breeds of donkey plus a collection of pack saddles and a variety of methods of controlling and cajoling them.

Langeais
A 15th century option, furnished in period style, built against the Bretons.

Usse
At Rigny-Usse with white towers and spires and a wooded setting, the chateau reported to have inspired Perrault's transcription of Sleeping Beauty. Up a narrow stair and behind the parapets are tableaux of scenes from the story, designed to appeal to small children. They will be less impressed by the guided tour of part of the chateau interior.

Valencay
Fully furnished and with full costume displays, plus mazes.

Villandry
A recreated Renaissance garden which, as was the practice, uses vegetables to create ornate patterns of shape and colour, offset by herbs and ornamental hedges. It's rather charming and the owner, a father of young children, has introduced a children's play area, the shop sells for example a small paper model of the garden to construct and there is a French language quiz for children to follow. Visits also pass through a renovated interior which, unlike most, allow visitors to touch for example the fabrics which are replicas, not originals.

Places

Amboise
A rather touristy but attractive place.
There are only the remains of a castle, turned into a luxury palace in the 15th century. The Tour des Minimes is the 15th century entrance, designed for the maximum number of fully armoured min on horses to enter and exit at top speed. There's gory history for those who want it: Protestant plotters were killed and draped round the castle and town.
Clos Luce is where Leonardo da Vinci lived for the last four years of his life and as well as roms with period furniture there is a museum to him and his work with around 40 models of his inventions reconstructed by IBM.
Musee de la Poste looks at the history of the postal delivery service from pony express onwards.
La Maison Enchantee is a collection of scenes with automata from Leonardo d Vinci to Doctor Jekyll.
Outside Amboise is a pagoda in a park. The building used to be part of an 18th century chateau, now disappeared, but children might enjoy climbing to the top and using the park for running around.
There is a tourist train mid June to mid September.

Chinon
A touristy spot, the ramparts of the chateau concealing a ruin and the medieval town below over-restored.
Outside are some troglodyte dwellings, some still inhabited at Coteaux Sainte-Ragonde.
At Chapelle Ste-Radegonde is a church in the rock once inhabited by a 6th century German princess and followers.
There is a tourist train for visitors.

Loches
A small centre with a walled citadel and below Renaissance houses still partly enclosed by the medieval town's outer wall.
In the Citadel the Porte Royale contains the Musee de Terroir of rural crafts and life.
Musee Lansyer to a local painter but also containing a Japanese collection including a complete suit of armour
The Logis Royal (royal lodgings) is more interesting for its history than its current condition (Joan of Arc visited) while at the other end of the citadel are dungeons (the torture equipment was destroyed during the French Revolution) and climbers might like to go to the top of the keep.
There is the option of a visit to the Galerie du Champignon as hereabouts mushrooms are grown in underground caves. There is a path round the moat and ramparts.
Just across the river is Beaulieu-les-Loches, a medieval village.

Tours
Capital of the Touraine region, with a growing student population as well as Parisian commuters. Worth a short tour is the old centre where there are half-timbered houses and stairway towers. Look out for the dogs, frogs and monsters on the Ecoles des Langues Vivantes, and rue Briconnet and Joan of Arc's armour shop. Place Plumereau is a fairytale half-timbered spot where children can look out for the vine growing over the roof.
The Cathedral is in various gothic styles, its stained glass reported to make kaleidoscope patterns in sunny weather.
Musee des Beaux-Arts includes paintings by Mantegna, Frans Hals' portrait of Descartes, Boulanger's painting of Balzac, a Monet, and Rembrandt's Flight into Egypt, under heavy security glass.
Musee de Compagnonnage in an 11th century guesthouse and 16th century monks' dormitory, most interesting for the works it exhibits which are literally ‘masterpieces' ie a piece of work proving that a trainee in a craft is fully skilled.
Musee du Gemmail is a museum of non-leaded stained glass with works including by Picasso and Cocteau.
Historial de Touraine in the Royal Chateau, offers 31 waxwork scenes from 15 centuries of the history of the area, might appeal to children (an English language leaflet explains who people are) and the centre makes a big effort to entertain them including in the standard entrance price sessions where they can dress up in period costume and learn traditional dances (take soft/gym shoes). English speakers will help English speaking children. Allow two hours. For French readers there is a quiz to complete on the visit.
Boulangerie Musee on place des petites Boucheries, is in a 16th century building and still bakes bread in a traditional wooden oven. A visit to see the traditional tools plus either breakfast or tea is F42.
In summer there are ferries to the island just off the town centre and exhibitions of the traditional boats used on the river.
There is a tourist train departing from the tourist office Easter to end September.

Plus

Abbaye de Fontevraud
Where a number of Plantagenets are buried, notably Henry II of England, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine, plus Richard the Lionheart. The abbey is simple and a lot of money is being built on restoration of the whole centre which until recently was a prison, and still has something of the feel of one.

Azay le Rideau
Home to Musee Maurice Dufresne with 3,000 ancient machines including lorries, tractores, airplanes, cars, locos and more.

St-Michel-sur-Loire
Home to a Musee Cadillac in Chateau de Planchoury with 50 different models of the American vehicle, apparently the largest collection outside the US and a great alternative to an overdose of European culture. .

Villaines-les-Rochers
A troglodyte village known in France because the curate set up a wickerwork co-op there to help villages earn a living. The Co-operative de Vannerie is open to visitors and on weekdays can be seen at work. It produces a third of France's wickerwork.

Animals

Aquarium de Touraine
Outside Amboise, described as the largest inland European aquarium, including largely freshwater species plus some sea water at the end. Includes a touching pool and fish from different parts of the world. Includes a children's play area. Children's quizzes in French. Combined tickets with Parc Mini-Chateaux, Donkey Park, and Donjon Eagles.

Parc le Fou de L'Ane
Outside Amboise, a donkey park, home to 150 donkeys of 17 different breeds and providing considerably more information about them than is usual. Next door to the Parc Mini-Chateaux. The park also offers events and for example carriage rides.

Reserve de Beaumarchais
At Autreche, a 30ha park 12km north of Amboise, with ostrich, bison, deer and wild boars, visited by ‘safari train'.

Outside the area covered here (so unchecked by ourselves) are two serious, free range style zoos at Doue, south of Angers, and Beauval on the Cher.

For Children

Lulu Parc
Near Tours at Rochecorbon, open from 10am in season with 3 ha of space and games like a ball pond, bouncy castle, pool, tourist train, pedal karting, trampoline, mini farm and more. Also children's quad bikes, pony rides and miniature golf.

La Recreation
At Le Petit Netilly, open April to September from 11.30am on an old farm with options like a treasure hung, water slides, cows, donkeys and ponies, cable rides, mini golf, toboggans bikes, pedal vehicles, a space for 2-6 years, and more. F30.

Parc Min-Chateaux
Outside Amboise next to the donkey park, offers 1:25 models of almost all the chateaux of the Loire - far more than you would ever want to visit in person, enlivened by miniature trains running through the landscape in between them. The figures give some idea of how the chateaux were used and allows the more studious to compare them.

Out and About

The Parc Naturel Regional Loire Anjou Touraine +33 (2) 41 53 66 00 has set up a number of country walks which are manageable for children and include along the route a few items of interest. We enjoyed the one at Gizeaux which is 4km and focuses on trees, ending along an alley of them which in which at least three sets of woodpeckers nest. Sighting poles help visitors locate them. There are other walks for example at Brains-sur-Allonnes, Montsoreau and Azay-le-Rideau.

Hunting is permitted September to March so if planning to walk in the country at those times you should check which are the days when hunting is not allowed (generally Wednesdays and Fridays).

Boat Trips operate from Rochecorbon (Bateau Promenade Le Saint-Martin-De-Tours) April to end October. Booking is advised.The Maison de la Loire at Montlouis-Sur-Loire covers the fauna, flora, geology and landscapes of what is described as the last unspoilt river of Europe.

A Corn Labyrinth Reignac sur Indre between Tours and Loches is described as the world's largest maze, designed as a game of snakes and ladders and built of maize plants in rows of four, plus stones and other plants. Visitors can choose the level of difficulty and theme of their route following a poem, a puzzle or a game. Open only mid July to mid September (when the corn is high enough). Allow three hours.

Riding is popular in this part of the world. We tried it with trepidation and it was a hit, despite a relatively demanding session in the manege for a five-year-old, followed by disappearing into the forest. We were recommended Ecuries du Abnau, La Brosse, Carrefour de la Queue de Merluche, 37250 St Etienne de Chigny +22 (2) 47 52 40 24 Respublica/abnau. This has 35ha of field and forest, horses and facilities like showers and hard hats. Here an hour's ride for children from four years is F100, half day F200. There is also the option of arranging a series of days, including care of the pony with two or three hour's riding each day. For further ideas see the leaflet produced by Le Comite Equestre Departemental d'Indre-et-Loire phone and fax +33 (2) 47 27 60 44 which lists another 17 in the area, all of whom have qualified teachers.

There are 28 open air pools and 14 covered ones, generally in the main town of each canton. Swimming is forbidden in the Loire for safety reasons and in the Cher down river from Tours.

Ballooning is offered from Amboise, taking off near the Pagode de Chanteloup daily morning or late afternoon.

Events

The area has something of a tradition of son et lumiere shows in chateaux which might be fun for some children although they tend to take place around 10pm - late for some. An example is The Ladies of Chenonceaux 10.15pm. July and August, with other shows at Ambopise and Azay le Rideau.

Specifically recommended for children is Merlin the Wizard at Loches mid July to early September with 100 plus actors and stories of Arthur, Lancelot, the Round Table etc.

Also specifically for children are from end May to end September Castelet de Marionnettes at Saint-Cyr-Sur-Loire, near Tours in the Parc de la Perraudiere, with puppets, and in July and August at the castle at Azay-le-Rideau an interactive theatre event for children 4-10 years.

At Chinon on the third Saturday in August is the Marche a l'Ancienne with 19th century tourist costumed participants parading live (small) farm animals.

For five days in June Villandry is running children's days when they can have at go at vegetable gardening.