What to Do and Where to Go

Holidays by Destination Europe Czech Republic What to Do and Where to Go 

In Prague it's difficult to know where to start what with medieval streets, gothic churches, baroque palaces and art nouveau public buildings before you even start on the museums and other tourist attractions.

The best plan is probably to pick places to visit but allow for plenty of wandering time in between - encouraging children to look around them as you go.

The main areas are the castle district of Hradcany with Prague Castle, cathedral and old royal palace and gardens, plus museums and galleries plus a quiet district popular with film-makers of cobbled streets and cottages alongside a few palaces - little changed in the last 200 years. Thids is a steep climb for little legs. Don't miss the small Toy Museum below the castle.

Below is Mala Strana, the Little Quarter of more cobbled streets, walled gardens with the parliament, embassies and the church of sv Mikulas. Forman chose this to impersonate Vienna in the film Amadeus and it's fun to explore.

The main sightseeing area is Stare Mesto, the old town on the opposite side of the Charles Bridge, the pedestrianised link with Mala Strana. The centre of Stare Mesto is the square Staromestske Namesti with its lovely baroque facades fronting much older buildings and on one side behind them the towers of the Tyn church. To the northwest is the former Jewish quarter.

To the south and east is Nove Mesto, the commercial part of town, focused on Wenceslas Square.

Beyond lie suburbs, largely 20th century and due to the efforts of the Communists, in very large part depressing.

Buildings

As mentioned, architecture is one of the joys of this city but the following is a very shortened list of key spots:

Prague Castle where there is a low key changing of the guard daily at noon. The extensive grounds include the cathedral and old royal palace, plus the Golden Lane of 16th century cottages which has some charm, despite the touristiness. Tickets are only needed for some sections such as the Old Royal Palace, though you could skip this. The Obranna chodba (defence corridor) with wooden shields and suits of armour might appeal however, and the White Tower with a reconstructed torture chamber, plus a shop selling replica swords and the like.

The Loreta in front of the Santa Casa, the baroque Loreta tower lit up at night and by day playing a hymn on 27 Dutch bells.

Strahov Monastery and particularly the striking libraries. The collection of ‘curios' (crabs, lobsters, shells beetles, moths, harpoons, a model ship and more) might attract children. The oldest book dates from the ninth century.

The church of Panna Maria Vitezna where the Bambino di Praga, a wax model of Jesus, has become an object of pilgrimage with close on 100 different donated outfits which are regularly changed by the nuns.

On Male namesti an old fashioned apothecary complete with baroque d?cor and chandeliers.

On the embankment Tancici dum (Dancing House, also known as Fred and Ginger after the shape of the two towers which look vaguely like a dancing couple. It was designed by Canadian Frank O Gehry and Yugoslav Vlado Milunic.

On Staromestske namesti (Old Town Square) is the city's famous astronomical clock with assorted figures which parade on the hour. It is part of the rather charming Dum U minuty town hall building. You can climb or use the brand new lift that whizzes you to the top for great view over the city.

Lucerna Arcade between Stepansky and Wenceslas Square, an art nouveau building from the ‘20s including a luxurious cinema, worth seeing even if you don't watch a film there.

Museums

Toy Museum Opinions on this differ with the collection of cars, robots and Barbie dolls either intriguing or pedestrian, depending on point of view. There is the odd button for children to press.

The Puppet Museum Includes Czech puppets from the late 19th and early 20th century. (Quality puppets can be bought from Loutky Puppets on Nerudova, starting at £10.)

The Jewish Museum The world's most extensive collection of Jewish art in a synagogue plus a tightly packed 15th century cemetery. (Nearby is also Europe's oldest functioning synagogue, the Old-New Synagogue and the area has a moving Holocaust memorial of just names, dates of birth and dates of transportation to camps).

The Mucha Museum With works by the famous exponent of art nouveau illustration.

UPM (Decorative Arts Museum) is a wonderful collection of glass, sculptures and other items, largely from Art Nouveau to the avant-garde.

There are plenty of art galleries but more appealing to adults than children so your choice will probably depend on their tolerance and your taste. Options include Dum U zlateho prstenu (House of the Golden Key) of 20th century Czech art, Dum U cerne Matky bozi (House of the Black madonna) built as a department store in Cubist style and now housing an exhibition of Czech Cubism, and Sternersky Palac a collection of old European art, mostly 14th to 18th century and containing a few gems. Probably most impressive is Veletrzni Palac with 20th century Czech art and 19th and 20th century European art, French name including Rodin, Renoir and Matisse, plus Rousseau, van Gogh and Picasso. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays.

Vila Amerika A museum to the most famous Czech composer Antonin Dvorak in the period house.

Betramka Villa A Mozart Museum as this was the house where he finished writing Don Giovanni, without any memorabilia but offering a rococco decor, attractive garden and acting as a venue for concerts.

Other

Concerts can be fun and tickets are extremely cheap. Wherever you go you will be handed flyers. Children are usually free. Ticketpro, http://www.ticketpro.cz, is the largest agency in Prague and allows on-line bookings.

Those in the Obecni Dum give you a chance to explore the art nouveau architecture, or several churches also have concerts.

Performances of Mozart operas take place regularly in the rather charming neoclassical 18th century Stavovske divadlo (Estates theatre) where a couple of them premiered. However, in summer you will probably hear music on the streets and in gardens, as well as the more obvious locations.

There are all kinds of little theatres where you can see marionette shows (Mozart's Don Giovanni is particularly popular) as well as traditional Czech Black Light Theatre- one show is based on Beatles songs, so no language problems there.). Look out for posters and flyers.

River trips start from Charles Bridge and last and hour, in well-heated cabins in winter.

Attractive wooden toys are widely available but one of the bet places to buy them is at Czech Traditional Handicrafts (Ceska Lidova Remesla) at the branch on Karlova.

Have a relaxed coffee. The ornate decor at the Europa on Wenceslas Square might appeal. Or (also art nouveau) there is the Obecni Dum building with a number of cafes where you can relive the feeling of turn of the century Prague. Alphonse Mucha painted murals here.

Kampa Park on Kampa Island, just under the Charles Bridge, is a good central spot to spend time out of doors.

Havelska Market is an open air market selling fruit, vegetables and flowers mainly but also some souvenirs and wooden toys.

In Mala Strana at Petrin there is a one fifth size version of the Eiffel Tower in a green space useful for running around purposes. There is also a funicular railway.

Next to the Eiffel Tower model is the Buludiste, a mini gothic castle with mock drawbridge and interior including a fun mirror maze.

Vysehrad 3km south of the city centre is a red brick fortress which is one of the best places to get away from the crowds.

Sport

The Czech Republic is a good place to watch sport with both ice hockey and soccer highly popular but easy and cheap enough to get tickets to on the day.